the brickwork or roof tiles. Sandy substrates – In the main picture we can see the mortar bed of a removed ridge tile has turned back into sand. Ive done a search on the internet with results of nothing. A wide variety of mortar bucket options are available to you, such as plastic. The quality of the substrate underneath the ridges should really also be in good condition for a good job. (more cement additives further down). More often than not they wrongly assume the mix was too weak, or too strong. Step 1. In the summer however dry arid air combined with heat can compromise the strength of the mortar and cause cracking, as well as cracking away from the surfaces you are trying to bond to, especially in exposed places like the top of a roof. If you use pure quick drying cement in the usual ratio of 3 : sand and 1 : cement (quick dry) it may result in a mix that dries in 10 – 15 mins, so fast that even in very cold conditions you get very little time to use it. As you can imagine the weather conditions on the day you are working with any sort of sand and cement mix will have an great influence on not only what you can do, but the end result. Lets take re-laying ridge tiles as a prime example, the ridge tiles and the roof tiles will have a fine surface water on them, and if the tiles are old and slightly surface porous the concrete will be damp internally too. bucket. These of course are my personal tips learnt over the years, or gleamed from others in the trade, both success and failure have shaped this article. The main benefits are that the mortar becomes more workable with a trowel and flows better allowing it to squeeze into finer details whilst using less water. The main reason for using quick drying cement in roofing is to avoid inclement weather like rain showers or impeding frost, in which case it can be a real boon if your back is to the wall. Harsh building sand – Getting to know which merchant sells what type of building sand can be the key to a nice job with a building sand mix. This is a beginners guide to pointing up. Mixing Mortar by Hand Find a platform or container to mix the mortar. Keep Mortar for a Long Time. Cracks in ridge tile cement – I know this is nitpicking, but it illustrates the principle perfectly. Any sort of dampness in the bricks or tiles that would normally help to slow down the cure of the mortar is now long gone, and you have the opposite effect, a super dry moisture sucking substrate that will rob your mortar of its water content prematurely and suck dry it. Often with me this will involve juggling jobs around the weather, or dropping off a job and going back to it on a more favourable day. if you insist on mixing your concrete,dont buy a 15 dollar bucket on ebay.go to sonic and ask for a pickle bucket,with the lid.its the same thing.but with that you are not going to mix enough concrete to make a damn.if you dont have a mixer,use a wheel borrow,and shovel. I cannot say for sure that it weakens the mix prematurely, and would probably be sued if I did. Sometimes if the original mortar mix has been cement weak, compromised by poor additives or other factors, it may not only be weak, but start to crumble and return back to a sand like state. Other important factors for good quality mortar are listed below…. Best sand for mortar – Three different commonly available sands, each will make a mortar with differing properties. After your ingredients are poured out, mix them together while they are still dry. Once the thinset is mixed, allow 15 minutes for the thinset to absorb the water. Add a couple of inches of liquid to the bottom of a 5 … The amount of water used can vary drastically depending upon the weather, how wet the sand is, and the variety of mix you're using, so read … Add the clean, pre–measured water gradually making sure that it does not There is however quite a few basic steps you can take to seriously improve nearly any standard cement mortar mix, without having to get too fancy, start adding lime, or getting too technical. Flooding the mix – A good example of this can actually be found in my how to mix mortar in a bucket video. Often this is used in a diluted form as mentioned below or seen in the diagram. Trowel and cement mortar in mixing bucket for construction building. Let the mortar sit undisturbed for about 3-5 minutes to allow the fine aggregate in the mix to fully … Another roofer, builder, plasterer or renderer may have their own opinions, or other great nuggets to share particular to their trade. It’s light weight for keeping handy at all times, comes in sachets, and is perfect for small jobs. i know how to mix concrete and all guys done plenty of it i was just curious if anyone had seen one of these things seems kinda interesting ya know. Mixing a small sand and cement bucket mix like this by hand is not only fast, but very cheap for small DIY jobs around the house. Normal warm dry weather – Slightly overcast or weak sun, no showers, not too hot, and not freezing. I can tell you it definitely worked as the render is still there and the bond is fantastic 10 years later. What this means is the tiles will not want to suck moisture from any mortar it contacts with. This is an area that is so often overlooked by DIY’ers, and some of the trade occasionally. Step 2. Bond and Flex – For increased adhesion, durability and flexibility consider an S.B.R additive (Styrene Butadiene Rubber) like S.B.R. Mortar Mixing Procedure Use a dry bucket to measure out the materials. If the mortar is over or under watered it will not spread properly. Always add the water before the thinset. It is still however a 3 : 1 mix, add a good plasticiser and you’re done…. Make a crater in the middle of the mix, and add a bucket of water and the appropriate amount of lime or mortar additive. 1. Often I will travel across town to pick up a bag of building sand where I know it will be a little harsh (sharp), or have irregular particles in it. When you have a 30 pound bag of mortar, like Laticrete MVIS Veneer Mortar, and you add their recommended 5.9 quarts of cold water to the entire bag, you get two things: Playing with the amount of quick drying and standard cement will accelerate or delay the drying process. It works, I suppose, but only in relation to NOT using any concrete at all. Yes, you now have the perfect conditions for a nice tan, and with the radio on and a cup of tea in hand life has never been better. If you were to rule out all mortar related jobs on all showery days, most professional roofers would have a huge backlog of work, and angry customers. Sunny hot weather – This can be as bad as constant rain for some jobs. Or maybe someone has a ratio of mix like 5 part mortar to 1 part water or something. So big mixes are out when working with this. Well, yes. Glazed substrates are what they sound like, if the surface is glazed or fired smooth any minute roughness in the surface is normally lost. It says to mix 50lb. The damp air also ensures that the mortar will cure much slower, and this is great news for the adhesion and strength of the cure as a whole. If however you climb ladders or scaffolding to point up let’s say some ridge tiles, and then lovingly take your time, pressing the mortar firmly home whilst concentrating on a nice aesthetic finish, it will probably crack and fall off within 6 months to a year. Sands can also be mixed together on occasion to get the best of both worlds. If this is on ridge or roof tiles, it makes achieving a long term bond very problematic even with additives. When a ridge or hip tile is bedded onto the roof, the thickness of the mortar bed determines how high the ridge tile will sit above the roof tiles, the bigger the distance is between the ridge and the roof, the more mortar mass it will take to fill the gap. Slow and steady really does win the race. In the case of pointing ridge tiles not only will the fresh mortar not bond to the sandy face properly, but often the sand will get between the roof surface and mortar making that bond to the surface of the roof ineffective. A crack that would normally appear in the mortar with age, may instead damage the brickwork or roof tiles, creating structural damage and a possible leak. I cement additives myself especially in winter to guard against light frosts, but I would not rely on them 100%. In the large picture you can clearly see there was no ‘key’ for any pointing to grip onto. Sometimes on a nice winters day it can be deceivingly warm, and well above 5º C, but remember winter days are much shorter, and when the sun drops, so do the temperatures. Stacker, I know a lot of old guys who do that for fence posts as well. A flat, solid surface base and tall sides for mixing mortar, if mixing by hand want! ( about 71/2 gallons ) the job streaks disappear videos of how to mix drying. 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